Little to no 3G and patchy and pricey power have meant we’ve effectively been operating off the grid for the last week or so. However we are back in Namche with plentiful supplies of both so we have some serious catching up to do!

I’ll pick up where we left off in Tengboche: We spent two nights here and they were full-on. Trevor and the team fired up the PowerLabs for another round of measures (I’ll try to write a dedicated post about this; there is some fascinating but reasonably complicated physiology going on here so I’ll have to consult with the experts and make sure all the information is correct), I tried my hand at night-time photography for the first time (with mixed results) and almost got assaulted by a yeti (turned out it was Kait also doing some early bird photography), and we did some more filming at the monastery for our neuroscience friends and were rewarded with a helicopter ride! Kait has talked more about this and should get some video up soon.

Views: Tengboche is perched atop a steep hill which gives wonderful views back down the valley. It also has enough elevation to give impressive vistas in the opposite direction. Ama Dablam, probably the most iconic peak in the region is on full display. Everest also makes an appearance for the first time. Tengboche is also flanked by the first of the really big Himalayan mountains making it a truly special place.

Health: the diamox that we are taking to combat acute mountain sickness has a curious side effect of tingling fingers and toes. This is really kicking in now that we’ve been taking it for a few days. In some people the amplitude is turned up a bit and there is an unnerving (and thankfully transient) crawling sensation on your face. It’s a little odd. The “Khumbu cough” is raising its head, a result of the cold, low humidity air up here and possibly some over-exertion.

Tomorrow it’s off to Pheriche, 10 kilometres away and about 600 metres above us.


Quite a pretty spot.
We took over the lodge and made it into a lab! Go science!


Trevor and Nikki de-splurdge a neumotach.
Shooting pickups outside the monastery for the monk doco. Getting the right shot requires judicious placement to avoid yak dung (that bit on the left was already shmooched).
More monk meditation monitoring.
Milky way over Tengboche.
Looking down at the monastery at dawn. We walked in from the left then up the hill. The bright lights of Khumjung and Khunde are in the distance. We would visit these places on the way back down.
Ama Dablam (on the right) at dawn. Everest is peeking up on the left (middle of the range).